Accessorising with jewelry

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Jewelry made with amber
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Basic fashion principles apply to jewelry too. Gold is a warm, bright color so it coordinates easily with earth tones, warm neutrals, reds, orange etc. It contrasts with strong, cool colors (sapphire blue, turquoise, forest green) and is trickier to team up with cool grays and pastels. Silver is a cool, pale color and works, generally, the other way round – ie, at its best with paler and cooler colors. Both metals are great with black for an understated look.

For more vibrancy, wear your black, white or neutral outfits with more colorful jewelry. Of course, if you’re wearing a color already, select jewelry with stones or enamel that harmonize with the garment or the accessories. A yellow summer dress with red shoes and earrings flashing with rubies – okay, perhaps just garnets for most of us – looks coordinated without trying too hard. With lapis lazuli earrings, the same outfit is a mess. Get some blue shoes!

Don’t overlook the role that jewelry can play in making your body shape look more symmetrical, taller or slimmer. Vogue’s suggestion in November 09 that we wear ‘hair furniture’ may sound odd but an updo, elaborately decorated with jeweled combs and worn with heels, could add over six inches to your height and slim a round face. There are  many tricks you can play once you’ve grasped the principle that the eye moves towards colour, light and detail, and registers that area as ‘bigger’. So if you’re somewhat ‘straight up and down’, you could use a wide, attention-grabbing necklace draped or pinned like a shawl to make your bust look more prominent – and sling a big blingy belt round your hips to widen them too. Presto: more hourglass, less ironing-board. Equally, if you feel a little too apple-shaped, learn how to accessorise with long bright beads against a plain garment to break up your form into tall, narrow rectangles.

If your clothing’s highly patterned or ornate, keep the jewelry plain, and vice versa. Wear a single piece of jewelry for class, and two matching or strongly coordinated pieces to make the effort for formal occasions. Multiple pieces of jewelry can be worn casually (many bracelets or beaded necklaces can look boho-chic, artistic, etc) or else saved up for costume parties when you really feel a need to pile on the rhinestones.

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